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Le Gateau Weekend

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9520_2015-08-09_Gateau Weekend (Bay Leaf Pound Cake - David Lebovitz)_Blog, Featured

     Crossing the San Francisco Bay Bridge for the first time, in a convertible with the top town, the scent was mesmerizing. “What is that smell,” I kept asking.

       “What smell?”

       “That smell, in the breeze. What is it? I know that smell.”

       Thank goodness I wasn’t driving, it was so distracting. Craning my neck out the passenger side window of the red Mustang convertible, hungry for more, my brain tried to connect identifiable memory with what my olfactory senses were inhaling, deeply. I knew that smell. It was so familiar. The synapse eluded me.

       The Bay Bridge is a long bridge. By the time we reached the end, my companion’s amusement at my inadvertent bloodhound imitation was waxing. As we approached terra firma, the scent surrounded us. My eyes closed, still searching memory banks.

       “What kind of tree is that?”  We were on solid ground now and huge, ginormous trees I had never seen before were breezing past us. Their perfume filled the air with subtle, earthy well-being.

       “Bay Leaf.”

       “That’s it! Bay leaf! We use it in beans and stews all the time. Holy moly! Those leaves are huge! No wonder Williams Sonoma was inspired to create such beautiful wreaths. They’re massive! Those are not the bay leaves we get at the supermarket. I never knew what they smelled like fresh.”

       “Mmmm.”

       Sitting back to relax against the convertible’s bucket seat, I closed my eyes again, allowing the scent to waft over me. When I opened my eyes, we were in wine country.

       Years later, reading David Lebovitz’ My Paris Kitchen: Recipes and Stories, I am once again mesmerized by the fragrance of bay leaf. Humble store-bought bay leaves are infused in the butter used to keep this pound cake moist. A few perfect leaves are buttered on one side and arranged on parchment paper to decorate the bottom of the loaf. Pound cake usually rises, though, and it would be a shame to level the top to serve it upside-down. Standing a leaf on its edge in the batter down the center identifies this heady beauty as something to talk about. Voila!

       It’s been 3 days since I baked what DL calls his gateau week-end.  I still smile when I bump into its subtle and mysterious fragrance.

Carrot Cake

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9773_2015-08-22c_Carrot Cake Muffins_Blog, Featured

There are three carrot cake recipes that I rely upon depending on whether a) whole wheat flour is on hand; and b) the audience prefers healthy over sweet.   For myself, the recipe with whole wheat flour, pineapple and walnuts from the California Heritage Cookbook is always my favorite.  The whole wheat provides depth and a little healthy fuel to burn.  

In the absence of whole wheat flour, David Lebovitz’ version from My Paris Kitchen takes the cake, especially in winter.  The allspice and cinnamon make it particularly perfect in winter.

For the sweet tooth, I recommend Larousse on Pastry’s recipe.  It’s not overly sweet, but it is more of a dessert than an healthy snack.

Carrot Cake
Another favorite from our mother's kitchen. The whole wheat adds makes it extra healthy and delicious!
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  1. 1-1/4 c. salad oil
  2. 1 c. brown sugar, packed (can be reduced to half)
  3. 1 c. granulated sugar (can be reduced to half)
  4. 4 eggs
  5. 1 c. all-purpose flour
  6. 1 c. less 2 tblsp. whole wheat flour
  7. 1 tsp salt (can be reduced to half)
  8. 2 tsp baking soda
  9. 2 tsp baking powder
  10. 2 tsp cinnamon
  11. 3 c. finely shredded raw carrots, packed
  12. 8-1/2 oz. crushed pineapple, drained (optional)
  13. 1/2 c. finely chopped walnuts (optional)
  1. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.
  2. Grease and lightly flour two 9-inch round cake pans (or 18 muffin tins).
  3. In a large bowl, sift together the two flours, salt, baking soda, baking powder, and cinnamon.
  4. In a mixer, blend the salad oil, brown sugar, and granulated sugar.
  5. Add the eggs, one at a time, beating until blended.
  6. Add the flour, one-third at a time, beating just until blended.
  7. Fold in the carrots, pineapple, and walnuts.
  8. Bake for 35-40 minutes or until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean.
  9. Cool for 10 minutes before turning out to a rack to cool completely.
  10. Optional: Unfrosted, this carrot cake may be wrapped and refrigerated for 5-6 days or froen for 2-3 months. Frosted, the cake will last in the refrigerator for up to a week.
  11. Optional: Frost with Lemon Cream Cheese Frosting.
  1. Lemon Cream Cheese Frosting
  2. 8 oz cream cheese, softened
  3. 1/4 c. butter
  4. 2 c. sifted confectioners sugar
  5. 1-1/2 tsp vanilla
  6. 1 tblsp grated lemon rind
  7. In a large mixing bowl, cream the butter and cream cheese until fluffy. Blend in the confectioners' sugar. Stir in the vanilla and lemon rind.
Adapted from The California Heritage Cookbook
Adapted from The California Heritage Cookbook
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Cherry Clafoutis

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9251_2015-08-04_Clafoutis_Blog, Featured

When cherries are in season, this is my go-to dessert. Whether it’s presented in individual ramekins or family style in a baking dish, it always tastes like summer.

Cherry Clafoutis
Serve warm in ramekins while the custard still has a little height to it; or cold any time from the baking dish.
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  1. 1 lb. black cherries
  2. 1/3 c. sugar
  3. 1 c. flour
  4. A pinch of salt
  5. 3 eggs
  6. 1-1/4 c. milk
  7. Butter for the mold(s)
  1. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Butter a 10-1/2 inch baking dish or 8 individual ramekins (1/2 cup capacity).
  2. Wash the cherries and remove the stems. Slice each in half and remove the pits. Place them in a bowl, sprinkle with half the sugar, and stir to distribute the sugar evenly. Set aside for 30 minutes.
  3. Sift the flour into a bowl, add a pinch of salt and the rest of the sugar. Beat the eggs and add them to the mixture. Mix well. Add the milk and mix again.
  4. Lay the cherries in a baking dish, pour the batter over them and bake until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean. If using ramekins, this will take approximately 25 to 30 minutes. If using a baking dish, approximately 35 to 40 minutes.
  5. Remove from the oven and allow to cool slightly.
  1. The custard will pouf up in the oven and deflate quickly (i.e., in the time it took me to remove the ramekins from the oven and take a few pictures), but don't worry, it's not a soufflé, it's supposed to settle a bit.
  2. The Larousse recipe calls for confectioners' sugar sprinkled on top, and I keep trying it because I get the impression it's more authentic, but the conclusion is always the same - clafoutis is sweet enough on its own. If anything, add a small dollop of whipped cream, or drizzle a tiny bit of Beaujolais Syrup on top.
Adapted from Larousse on Pastry
Adapted from Larousse on Pastry
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Zucchini Tea Bread

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9223_2015-07-30_Zucchini Bread_Featured 
The first time my mother made this moist tea bread, I scrunched my nose at the thought of zucchini masquerading as the basis for anything resembling cake.  But it was delicious!  I still love the crunchiness of the walnuts and the sesame seeds, not to mention the license to indulge in a healthy snack with a cold glass of milk.

Zucchini Tea Bread
This low-salt adaptation yields 1 loaf or 12 cupcakes. It can be made a day ahead, refrigerated for up to 2 weeks, or frozen for 3 months. Double the recipe for 2 loaves.
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  1. 2 eggs
  2. 1/3 c. salad oil
  3. 1/2 c. less 2 tbs. granulated sugar
  4. 1-1/2 tsp. maple syrup
  5. 1 c. shredded zucchini (approx. 2 small zucchini)
  6. 1-1/4 c. sifted flour
  7. 1/4 c. wheat germ
  8. 1/2 tsp. salt
  9. 1 tsp. baking soda
  10. 1/4 tsp. baking powder
  11. 1/c. finely chopped walnuts
  12. 3 tbsp. sesame seeds
  1. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Lightly butter and flour a 9x5x3-inch loaf pan; or 2-3 mini loaf pans; or tins for a total of 12 regular-sized muffins. Set aside.
  2. In a large bowl, mix the sifted flour, wheat germ, salt, baking soda, baking powder, and walnuts. Set aside.
  3. In a mixer, beat the eggs until blended, then add the salad oil, sugar, and maple syrup, and continue beating until thick and foamy.
  4. Sir in the zucchini with a spatula.
  5. Stir in the flour mixture, just enough to blend.
  6. Ladle the batter into the prepared loaf pan or muffin tins. Sprinkle the sesame seeds over the top.
  7. Bake 30 minutes for mini-loaves; 50 minutes for muffins; or 1 hour for a full loaf; or until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean and dry.
  8. Cool in the pan for 10 minutes. Turn out on a rack to cool completely. Wrap in foil or plastic wrap and store 1 day before serving.
Adapted from The California Heritage Cookbook
Adapted from The California Heritage Cookbook
Travel & Regatta https://travelandregatta.com/

Individual Chocolate Souffles

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9409_2015-08-08_Chocolate Soufflee_Blog, Featured

Simple and quick to prepare, these individual chocolate souffles are certain to delight. See the notes in the variation for tips on a recipe for two.

Individual Chocolate Souffles
Serves 6
Souffles once intimated me. Not any more! These are quick and easy with ingredients that are in our kitchen on a regular basis. The original recipe called for rum, coffee or water for flavoring. I like to use rioja wine or cranberry juice.
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Cook Time
20 min
Cook Time
20 min
  1. 8 oz semisweet or bittersweet chocolate, chopped
  2. 4 tblsp (1/2 stick) unsalted butter
  3. 2 tblsp rioja wine, cranberry juice, rum, or coffee or water
  4. 6 large egg yolks
  5. 6 large egg whites, at room temperature
  6. Heaping 1/4 teaspoon cream of tartar
  7. 1/2 c sugar
  1. Preheat oven to 375 degrees.
  2. Butter and sugar six 10- to 11-ounce ramekins and arrange on a baking sheet.
  3. Combine in a heatproof bowl: chocolate, butter, flavoring.
  4. Set the bowl in a skillet of hot (but not simmering water) and stir until the mixture is smooth. Let cool for 10 minutes, then...
  5. Whisk in egg yolks.
  6. Separately, in a mixer, beat the egg whites until foamy.
  7. Add the cream of tartar to the egg whiles and beat at high speed until soft peaks form.
  8. Gradually beat in the sugar and beat until the peaks are stiff but not dry.
  9. Using a large rubber spatula, stir one-third of the egg whites into the chocolate mixture, then gently fold in the remaining mixture.
  10. Divide the batter equally among the prepared ramekins and smooth the tops.
  11. Bake until risen and set, about 20 minutes.
  12. Optional: After bringing the souffles to the table, cut a slit in the top and drop a dollop of whipped cream on top.
  1. SWEET ENOUGH FOR TWO: Break out the electric hand mixer with a whisk attachment, butter and sugar two 3-1/2-inch ramekins, and follow the instructions above with these measurements: 1 egg; 1 tbsp. butter; 1 tbsp. sugar; 1-1/6 oz dark chocolate; pinch of cream of tartar; 1/4 tbsp. prepared coffee, red wine, or cranberry juice.
Adapted from The Joy of Cooking
Adapted from The Joy of Cooking
Travel & Regatta https://travelandregatta.com/

Bittersweet Chocolate Icing

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7781_2015-07-07_Hot Chocolate_Blog, Featured
Delicious with Christmas Spice Cake!

 

Bittersweet Chocolate Icing
This recipe accompanied Maida Heatter's recipe for Tomato Soup Cake, which I refer to as Christmas Spice Cake because most people can't conceive of tomato soup as a cake ingredient. Yet it is delicious. The soup adds moisture in a nutricious way to a recipe fragranced with cinnamon, cloves, nutmeg and cocoa. To me, this cake spells Christmas.
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  1. 1/2 c. whipping cream
  2. 3 oz. unsweetened chocolate, chopped coarsely
  3. 5 oz. milk chocolate, chopped coarsely
  1. Place cream in a small saucepan over moderate heat. Let cook uncovered, until there is a slight wrinkled skin on top or small bubbles form around the edges.
  2. Add the unsweetened cohocolate and stir until it is almost all melted.
  3. Transfer the mixture to the small bowl of an electric mixer. Beat at medium-high for 1 to 2 minutes, until the mixture becomes beautifully smooth, shiny and thck. Then, without waiting, pour the icing on the cake and quickly spread it over the top with a long, narrow spatula.
Adapted from a Maida Heatter recipe.
Adapted from a Maida Heatter recipe.
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Pear Bardaloue

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#6655_2013-01-06_Pear Tart (Bardaloue)_Blog2

My Dad loved pears and I had purchased the ingredients to make this for him over the winter break of 2012.  He passed away that Thanksgiving weekend.  Over the holidays, I made it in his honor and invited the local branch of our family to share it.   They loved it, and I know Dad would have, too.

Pear Bardaloue
Easier than you might think and absolutely gorgeous. This fragrant dessert is redolent of pears, almonds, autumn, and good friends.
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  1. TART SHELL
  2. ==========
  3. 7 tbsp. butter
  4. 1-1/4 c. sifted flour
  5. A pinch of salt
  6. 2 tbsp.. sugar
  7. 5 tbsp. ice cold water
  8. ALMOND CREAM
  9. ==============
  10. 1/4 c. butter
  11. 1 small egg
  12. 5 tbsp. sugar
  13. 7/8 c. ground almonds
  14. PEARS
  15. ======
  16. 10 to 12 canned pear halves (about 4 cans)
  1. PREPARE THE CRUST: Cut the butter into very small pieces. Put the flour in a bowl and make a well in the center. Add the salt, the sugar, and the butter. Quickly rub in the ingredients with your fingertips. Add some water to form a dough. Knead until supple. (It should be neither too sticky, nor too soft.) Dust your work surface with flour, lay the dough on it and flatten it with the heel of your hand. (Do not knead at this stage.) Shape the dough into a ball, wrap in plastic wrap and allow to rest for at least 30 minutes.
  2. WHILE THE DOUGH IS RESTING: Cut the butter for the almond cream into pieces and allow to soften at room temperature.
  3. Drain the pears and cut lengthwise into thin slices.
  4. Preheat the oven to 375 degrees.
  5. PREPARE THE ALMOND CREAM: Break the egg into a bowl, add the butter and sugar and beat by hand until you obtain a smooth cream. Beat in the ground almonds.
  6. Roll out the dough and place in a 9-inch tart shell Pour in the almond cream. Arrange the pear slices on top.
  7. Bake for 30 minutes.
  8. Allow to cool slightly before turning out.
  9. Serve cold or at room temperature.
  1. This pastry crust is best when created by hand (not in a food processor). If you are pressed for time or just don't want to work the dough with your hands, try the Pate Brisee recipe elsewhere on this site.
  2. If the tart has cooked for 30 minutes and a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean - but the almond cream filling is not golden brown - try sprinkling a little sugar on the cream (not the pears) and using a crème brullee torch - very lightly and briefly - to brown the top.
Adapted from Larousse on Pastry
Adapted from Larousse on Pastry
Travel & Regatta https://travelandregatta.com/